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  1. Yesterday
  2. Three Way Dimmer Switch

    Is the living room light already wired as a 3-way using regular switches?  If so, then you'll need one z-wave switch and one matching [same manufacturer] "companion" switch [also called "add-on" or "accessory" switch].  You should inspect how your existing 3-way switches are wired before you select your z-wave switches!   Different manufacturers have different wiring requirements.  You'll probably have to download the installation instructions for the various switches in order to find the wiring diagrams showing their requirements. 
  3. Three Way Dimmer Switch

    Hello I am planning to install z-wave three way dimmer switch.  Switch Location A (Living Room): Z-Wave Switch controlling living room Switch Location B (Kitchen): Switch controlling living room as well (three way setting) Question - Can I achieve this using Z-Wave ? I saw some three way dimmer, not sure how it works. - Do i need Z-wave at both location or I can have Z-Wave at Location A and regular switch at Location B ? Thanks 
  4. Earlier
  5. newbie help needed

    I need some help here, i need to turn on a light every time a door is opened in a room, i have 5 doors and 1 light bulb, i am planning o have 5 magnetic door sensors all of them tied to one dimmer without any controller and of course, once the door is closed the light will turn off, could that be possible
  6. I have an actuator (Simon Sense, http://www.simon.es/sense/files/80006xx-xxx%20Sense%20Keypad%20(990837).pdf) for generating scenes, which works with KNX technology, and I was wondering if it is possible to somehow transform the KNX signal to Z-wave? (so I can reuse it). Any ideas how to do it, if possible? Thanks
  7. I have an actuator (Simon Sense, http://www.simon.es/sense/files/80006xx-xxx%20Sense%20Keypad%20(990837).pdf) for generating scenes, which works with KNX technology, and I was wondering if it is possible to somehow transform the KNX signal to Z-wave? (so I can reuse it). Any ideas how to do it, if possible? Thanks
  8. Hey folks, I hope this forum isn't dead.  I'm new to this technology and hoping for some ideas how to fix the problem. I recently moved into an apartment complex with about 60 units.  Each unit has an identical 2gig CT-100 z-wave thermostat. After a few nights of hearing the sound of an AC compressor humming away even though the weather is still fairly cool, I decided to see if it was mine.  I tripped the AC breaker and the noise stopped.  Checking the thermostat shows that it's still on heat mode from the winter.  The ventilation blower wasn't running, just the compressor for no apparent reason.  I left the breaker off for the night. I informed the property maintenance.  When the handyman was over, I turned the breaker back on to demonstrate the problem and the compressor kicked on again.  He replaced the thermostat with another identical one.  The next night the compressor was running again for no reason.  I turned off the breaker and let maintenance know the problem was still there.  They have been up twice since then but it turns out to be an intermittent problem and won't do it while the handyman is here.  Last time he pushed the reset button and said that was all he knows how to do. After researching the Z-wave technology, it seems the node ID only has 256 possibilities.  I'm thinking that the thermostat in another unit has the same network ID and node ID.  With 60 CT-100's in close proximity, they might be forming a network together and using the default setting that the handyman does not know how to change. Questions:  Is there a way to turn off the radio since I don't use a controller?  Is there a way to change the network and/or node ID's from the thermostat itself?  Do I need to buy a controller just to solve this problem? Thank you!
  9. Z-wave sniffer?

    A bit late reply, but I have been working on this for some time now. I have created a sniffer that show which nodes the traffic is going from/to and some basic package information. It should be enough to figure out where you have situations with certain nodes saturating your network. You can have a look here if interested: https://www.suphammer.net/zwave_sniffer/ Best regards, Jon
  10. I had the GE Simon XT with four Trane TZ400BB3VZNNSL ZWave thermostats.  We flooded in August and lost two thermostats along with the panel.  We purchased a new panel, IQ 2.0, along with two new zwave thermostats.  I went to remove/unlearn the two existing thermostats and it will not remove itself from the network.  I've tried the following: 1) restore settings to factory 2)  use the new panel in the learning mode to remove the thermostat 3)  remove the face/power for long periods.  Nothing has worked.  Any help would be appreciated. 
  11. After doing some tests with the CommandClass Powerlevel, I got the problems that some nodes freezes in status "In Progress" When asking for a report I only get status=InProgress over hours & days, I can't start any further tests. I've tried a lot so far, but nothing helped. How to reset/stop Powerlevel testing on a node? Thanks    Achim
  12. deleted

    Sorry duplication, can't delete this post
  13. Hi, since about 1 year I'm creating an application based on OpenZWave library to manage room temperaturs. The application is running on a RasPi like embedded system with web frontend. I'm using the following devices: Qubino PWM and on/off thermostat zwave.me UZB1 stick Philio PAN04 or PAN06 as repeater Secure SES303 and SES302 to measure climate data and some more for testing  Idea is: Planning events in the rooms with Google calendar Heat the rooms before the events begin to have it on-time at right temperature (this is an automatic learning algorithm)  monitor all temperatures over years to be able to adjust and improve settemps support radiators (usually driven by water at about 70°C) and underfloor heating (by about 30°C) measure electric power consumption remote access to the web-frontend reduce energy costs
  14. New Install in New Home

    Okay, I see what you mean.  The Windows HomeTroller boxes are "native" and the Linux ones include the emulation layer.  Makes sense.  My personal preference would be for Linux.  When I ran my business, I started with almost no money and needed an OS I could install on multiple machines and Linux was cheap.  So I got to know it very well and did a lot of coding and work on it, but in a situation like this, it really won't matter to me which OS it's on.  In this case, I'd go for Windows, since that'd give me the more solid foundation. Thanks for the clarification!
  15. New Install in New Home

    Well, I didn't word that part about the Linux boxes quite properly.  The smaller HomeTroller boxes run Linux, the larger ones run Windows embedded.  It will tell you in their website text which is which.  What I'm saying is that if you choose one of the smaller boxes that run Linux, then you have an extra "emulation" layer between the operating system and the Homeseer software.  This can lead to additional problems.  Read the HS forum thread about version 3.0.0.313 for examples.  Also, there are restrictions on the number of plug-ins that will run on the smaller boxes.  Some plug-ins will not run at all on the Linux boxes.  `I'd suggest posting on the HS forum to get more info from folks that are actually running the HS controllers.
  16. New Install in New Home

    I'll head over to HomeSeer, then, and ask about this on their forums. I just want to clarify what you're talking about with the HomeSeer.  Are you saying using one of their boxes basically adds more complexity for me because they develop on Windows and Linux?  I used to have several servers running for my business and have been working hard, for years, to reduce the number of PCs in my house.  (At one time I had to close the bedroom door if I wanted to sleep - the fan noise was too much!)  So, if possible, a stand-alone box sounds easier.  Aren't their boxes just running either Windows or Linux anyway, though? That suggestion about the boxes - yes, that's an excellent point!  I will bring it up with him!
  17. New Install in New Home

    A few thoughts: 1.  Signup for the HomeSeer forums right away.  There's lots of smart, experienced people there to help you. 2.  Consider running HomeSeer on a dedicated, always-on PC instead of one of the HS boxes.  HS does their development in Windows .Net, then uses Mono to run it on their Linux-based controllers.  This adds another level of complexity and can make upgrading the hardware tough.  Also, consider the HomeSeer Z-net for your z-wave interface.  It plugs into your ethernet network to attach to your PC instead of having to be close enough to the PC to use USB.  You'll want the flexibility this gives you in locating the controller centrally in the house.  Along that topic, run some ethernet into centrally-located closets so you'll have something there if you want a Z-net in that location. 3.  Have your contractor use the deepest j-boxes and switch-boxes that will fit in your walls!!!  You'll appreciate the extra room when you go back to add micro-controllers later! Hope that helps.
  18. I'm in central Virginia and building a new house.  While doing this, I want to have the electrical work done to make sure it'll be easy to upgrade to Z Wave devices along the way without needing any rewiring.  I've looked at other systems and it seems to me Z Wave offers the most in terms of products and programmability.  I have a lot of questions and not much time to make my decisions! In my current house, I am mainly using any advanced automation or control for my living room.  I have four ceiling lights there, two of which are on the two ceiling fans.  I am using a Lutron Maestro set of switches so I can control everything with an IR remote.  I can easily change the fan speeds and light levels and turn fans and lights on and off.  (Fans and lights are operating independently. In the new place I want to start with a similar setup in our great room.  I'm also going to want to be able to use a remote in the bedroom to turn the lights there on and off. I have some restrictions, though, that make things more difficult.  We are working with a special design for our house and are creating an "old world" cottage with a "fairy tale" feel to it.  That means we'll be using the old style push button switches.  (See 1st picture.)  We'll also be using the "antique style" light bulbs, as seen in the 2nd picture.  These push button switches are not as outdated as they look.  The versions we'll be getting use the top button to turn the light on and off and the bottom button is a dimmer.  Supposedly they control LEDs, and we will be using LEDs in some rooms.  There's another restriction: I'm marrying someone who is not thrilled with too many control choices.  In my current house, I have the rectangular push-button light switches that look like paddle switches.  She very strongly prefers switches that are just push-on and push-off.  The double-tap on the Lutron button switches to turn the light on full is frustrating for her. So the idea is to make switches turn things on and off and maybe let them dim lights.  Then we'll use handheld remote controls to control things like dimming and fan speed. From what I've found I can use Aeotec's Micro Dimmers and even Nano Dimmers (not available yet) to control lights and fans.  I understand these work with on/off switches well, so if the switches are wired properly, you can turn a light or fan on or off from either the remote or the wall switch. I plan to use a Homeseer hub, since I've found they not only do Z Wave, but also can do several other proprietary systems, such as Insteon (and I think an Insteon device might be best to control the fans and lights in the great room). My short term, immediate plan is this: Set up "normal" functioning electrical components (switches, dimmers, lights, and ceiling fans) for the initial install.  Do any extra wiring that will be needed before we put up drywall. Use either the Aeotec devices or Insteon devices so we can turn the great room lights and fans on and off from wall switches, but also from Z Wave (or HomeSeer) remotes or cell phones or tablets.  The dimming and fan control would be from remote control, but if it were possible to use the push-button dimmers to dim from the wall switches as well, that'd be great (but I don't think that's possible, since the wall switches are not Z Wave). Use a similar setup for the bedroom, where the lights and fan are turned on and off by wall switches, but dimming and speed are controlled remotely. Then, in the long term, I want to be able to either replace more wall switches or augment them with a Z Wave "upgrade" device that goes into the wall box that lets the wall switch work normally, but also allows Z Wave remote control of the light and/or fan. In many cases, the idea is that we'd have regular pushbutton switches that work alongside the Z Wave controls, so both the manual wall switches and the Z Wave controllers can work without interfering with each other or fighting each other. From what I've seen, and I know this is more about Insteon than Z Wave, but I suspect it's a Z Wave issue as well, the biggest thing I can do to make upgrading the house later easy is how I wire the switches.  In my current post-WWII late 1940s home, the power and return line always go to the light in the ceiling, then two wires to from there to the switch and back, so the switch closes the circuit.  It seems that for home automation, the best thing to do is to run the power line to the wall switch, so it'll always have power if I install a Z Wave or Insteon or other device, and then have the lines run from there to the light or ceiling fan. I would like suggestions on devices to use to be able to use Z Wave for light and fan control so I can control devices from the wall switches and remotely.  I'm also open to suggestions on links with good reading material to help me understand what I need to do and what I can and can't do with Z Wave. I'd also be interested in hearing if there are Z Wave dimmers that work well with LEDs as well as incandescent lights.
  19. I'll post more details with questions in the appropriate place, but I've just joined here.  In my current house I set up a nice system in my bedroom and living room using Lutron switches, but I've found multiple shortcomings for them (like poor LED control, limited controls).  Since we're building a new house, I want to set things up so I won't be tearing out wall or ceiling panels later to make things work the way I want.  We're going to start with minimal controls and expand over time, so I have to plan everything to make it work now, but to be easily upgraded later.
  20. Exterior Security Lights

    The Aeotec In-wall micro controller might work for this as long as you have a neutral wire available.  https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC26103-ZWUS-Wall-Controller/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008VWBNAU&pd_rd_r=2VTSHPMAJZ90HW52B76E&pd_rd_w=VKsBO&pd_rd_wg=cP7LU&psc=1&refRID=2VTSHPMAJZ90HW52B76E
  21. I have several exterior motion sensing flood lights around my house.  They are hard wired and NOT controlled by a switch.  I want to replace them with simple exterior light fixtures.  I need either 1) z-wave R40 exterior floods, ii) a z-wave light fixture that can be hardwired or iii) a small Z-wave inline switch that can be put in the wall box and wired between the source and the fixture.  Have searched the net but can find nothing.  Any suggestions?  Thanks
  22. Hello guys, could anybody help me for factory reset about TZ08 because I didn't follow init process and now, my motor open just for 1 cm best regards joel
  23. hello, sorry for my english but I give all my best regards I'm a french newby with Z-wave thanks for help than I could find in this forum  
  24. I am not sure to fully understand your objectives but I think that you can achieve your objectives with Zwave switches and  programs on your hub software. Depending on your objectives and physical space in your switch boxes, you could have a Zwave switch (connected with LINE and NEUTRAL but no LOAD) that initiates a SCENE or a PROGRAM.
  25. There is another way if you have line and neutral near the door.  Install a regular Zwave ON/OFF switch without a Load wire, then create two programs in your hub software : (1) IF switch A = ON,   THEN  B = ON (2) IF switch B = ON,   THEN  A = ON I have this setup for a virtual 3-way of one of my ceiling fans. BTW I suggest that you use Homeseer switches as they have Status Reporting which is useful when switches are in a program.
  26. Your Favorite Switch/Dimmer

    While reading your post and writing this reply, I am looking at two of my  switches in one switch box.  One is a GE Fan switch and the other a Homeseer Dimmer Light switch. They look exactly the same, but yes the Homeseer dimmer has the sentinel lights. I happen to like these but I understand that other may not. As I use some of my switches in programs, the status update is important to me, and I find the Homeseer far superior. Note that GE switches have a blue sentinel light, and Homeseer's is white. Also note that GE/Jasco has come out with new combined Zwave/Motion detector switches that are Zwave Plus. I don't know whether these new switches include status reporting. having read somewhere that the Lutron patent expired in 2016, I would not be surprised that all new Zwave switches will now have status reporting, but the GE/Jasco website does not mention anything on status reporting.
  27. I use the ISY994ZW hub and have more than 40 Zwave devices in my 3,000 sq. ft home that all connect to the hub. Zwave is a mesh network, meaning that (most) devices operate as a repeater. In theory, as long as one of your devices is in range of the hub and the other devices are in range of each other,  you should not have an issue. From time to time, I can not include a new Zwave device to the network.  In that case if the device is portable, I include it close to the hub and then move the device to the desired location. If not portable, I move the hub to the device (old principle of if Moses does not come to the mountain, then the mountain comes to Moses....). I am lucky in having a Google Wifi router and can easily move one of the GWF pods, with hub attached, close to the in-wall Zwave device if needed.
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