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About garylm

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    Z-Wave Maniac

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  • Interests Home Theater, Camping
  1. Controlling Recessed can lights

    Greetings C, The Aeotec Micro Smart Dimmer will probably work for you. A fireplace?  In Arizona?
  2. The Baldwins look nice, but they're polished brass.
  3. Plenty of polished brass Z-Wave door locks out there.  This antique brass lock is European Z-Wave and won't work here in the States:  Vision ZM 1702 EU RF / Z-Wave Door Lock with Handle (Antique Brass) Oh well, it was probably the wrong shade of antique brass anyway.
  4. Jasco 45717, but it's a dimmer
  5. Your Favorite Switch/Dimmer

    The Leviton switches with Z-Wave capability are part of their "Vizia RF+" line.  Most of my switches are model VRS15-1LZ. The posters who claim instant updates may have configured a very short polling interval on their system controller.
  6. Leviton Wall Switch DZS15

    There's some customer feedback on the Home Depot site, with several people claiming that the DZS15 does not send status updates to the Wink hub. I guess not all Leviton Z-Wave switches send instant notification.  That will be something to watch out for.  The VRS15-1LZ  does send instant notification, and it can be found around the web for $54.95 or less. Let us know how the VeraEdge polling goes, Does the Wink hub support polling?
  7. Leviton Wall Switch DZS15

    Hi Dooglas, I've been using Leviton VRS15-1LZ switches in my Homeseer HS3 system, and they all send notifications back to the system controller in real-time when the switch is operated manually.  I understand that the patent for this "instant notification" feature is held by Lutron, and that certain Z-Wave manufacturers pay royalties to Lutron for cross-licensing of this feature. I had assumed that all Leviton Z-Wave switches would send instant notification, but perhaps I am wrong.  I have noticed that some Leviton Z-Wave switches sold at Home Depot are packaged differently and may have model numbers other than what I have used in the past.  Perhaps Leviton has a family of Z-Wave switches that don't support instant notification. The non-Leviton switches in my system all have to be polled by the system controller. You should be able to find information on the Vera wiki site about setting up polling.  Apparently there is a fine balance to be achieved when it comes to polling, system responsiveness, and processing overhead. There are other claims out there of a workaround using Z-Wave device associations, but I have never looked into it.  
  8. Your Favorite Switch/Dimmer

    Greetings jrich. I like the real-time notification capability of the Leviton Z-Wave switches.  I also like their ability to change faceplate colors, and I like the build quality.  I don't like that only the bottom half of the rocker switch is used (it doesn't rock in the up-direction).  And I don't like the lip under the bottom edge of the paddle.  I once snagged that lip when I brushed against the switch, and I accidentally pulled the face-plate off. I've got some old ACT relay switches.  I like the isolated relays for switching loads other than AC line voltage.  I don't like the flimsy construction. I've seen the plastic change color after years in the sun on some old Intermatic switches. The gap around the inclusion button on the front of the GE switches is just another place for grime to collect. The Dragon Techs are very sturdy and inexpensive.  They will soon have color-change capability.  Similar in quality to Leviton and Cooper, but they don't have that same patented real-time notification feature. I don't have first-hand experience with the Coopers. Have had occasional problems, across multiple brands, with cold solder joints on the built-in Z-Wave antennas.  Usually the antenna is just a wire that extends through a hole in the metal mounting strip (the antenna wouldn't work if it was surrounded by metal), but that wire needs more heat and more solder than it sometimes gets in order to make a secure connection to the printed circuit card inside. 
  9. New Z-Wave Products

    Vision Security's Shock Sensor received FCC approval on January 19, 2016 and is now available for sale in the U.S. According to their site:    
  10. Smart buttons

    Greetings maxiepax, I think I understand what you're talking about.  Each light would need a "memory" relay that retains its state, and a second relay wired in series with the "memory" relay that would perform the ALL-ON/ALL-OFF function.  The ALL-ON/OFF relays for each light would all be tied to a single ON-scene and a single OFF-scene. I think you would need dry-contact relay devices to accomplish this, with the wiring to the relay contacts being independent from the wiring that provides power to the Z-Wave circuitry (the "brains" of the relay).  That way, for any given light, the Z-Wave circuitry for both the "memory" relay and the "All-ON/OFF" relay will always have power, and you can connect the two dry-contact relays in series with the light. I don't think the Fibaro dimmer and switch modules are available in the US yet, but we do have the Aeon Labs "Micro Smart Switch 2E," which would also work.  The Aeon Labs switches have a pair of terminals for powering the device itself, and a pair of isolated terminals to each side of the relay contact.
  11. Smoke/CO detectors?

    Greetings I haven't converted my smoke detectors to Z-Wave yet. The existing old-school detectors in my house are all wired together like you say, so that if one goes off, they all go off. It would seem that if there was a Z-Wave plugin replacement for what I've already got - a smoke detector that is wired to all the other smoke detectors, then ideally I would only need one Z-Wave smoke detector for the entire house. Any non-Z-Wave detector in the chain could go off and notify every other smoke detector, including the Z-Wave smoke detector. And the Z-Wave smoke detector would send an alarm message to the system controller (or other associated device), regardless of whether it detected smoke itself, or whether one of the remaining old-school detectors in the chain detected smoke first. It doesn't appear that the Fibaro, Zipato or FirstAlert detectors have connectors on the back for tying in with an existing hard-wired smoke alarm system. But the Everspring does. It looks like Vesternet sells them. I don't know if I would trust a smoke alarm that wasn't hard-wired to the other smoke alarms. If you've got a fire in your house, there's a chance that your Z-Wave system controller has already gone up in flames, along with a few key Z-Wave repeater devices. So then who is your Z-Wave smoke alarm going to notify by means of RF? And if your single Z-Wave smoke alarm is the last of all the smoke alarms to detect smoke, and there was no hard wire from the first smoke alarm, then you're not going to be notified on your cell phone from your home's system controller until the house is fully engulfed.
  12. Greetings! I'm not familiar with the Lynx, but if I were in your place, I might have tried re-adding the switches one at a time without first excluding them. That might have worked if the "reset controller" function that you mentioned hadn't changed the onboard Z-Wave controller itself (I'm guessing that the Lynx has a built-in Z-Wave controller chip that has a unique, hard-coded ID to set it apart from your neighbor's central controller; your switches after having been added to your home network, recognize only your Z-Wave network's ID; if that Lynx Z-Wave network ID didn't change, then it might just be a matter of rebuilding the Lynx's network table by re-adding each device). It's been awhile, but I've had success in the past re-adding devices to the network without first excluding the device. I like that method because the switch/device retains it's original device number in the network, and then I don't have to modify any events that refer to that device by its number. But maybe your Lynx's Z-Wave controller has totally lost its mind, or maybe the Lynx isn't friendly to the idea of re-adding an existing device. In that case you'll have to first exclude each device individually from the network. I'm not sure what the exclusion procedure is for your Lynx, but it will be similar to the inclusion process. The exclusion process will receive equal treatment to the inclusion process in your Lynx owner's manual. Most Z-Wave switch/device manufacturers recommend that when you add their device for the first time to your network, that you first exclude it from your network. Even though the device just arrived new in the mail today, you should exclude it first before including it. No, it has never been part of your network before, but maybe the vendor sent you a customer return instead of unopened stock, in which case your "new" device may think it's part of the previous customer's network. Or the test technician at the manufacturer picked your new device out of the lot and ran it through it's paces and forgot to wipe it clean before shipping it. The Z-Wave exclude function can wipe any Z-Wave device clean, even if it's not part of the network. Some older Z-Wave controllers require that you physically take the controller to within three feet of the device being included or excluded. In that case they may have provided a battery pack to keep the controller alive as you move about the house, or you would have to plug the controller into a really long extension cord.
  13. EU Z-Wave Frequency in India

    Yeah, Z-Wave India appears to have Fibaro products for sale. It would be interesting to find out which frequency is being used by the devices they're selling. I don't know about the legal issues. It seems to me that the seller should be concerned about selling devices that don't adhere to the allocated spectrum for the region they serve. Your concern would be whether your out-of-spec Z-Wave stuff would interfere with your neighbor's strictly legal stuff (some other product must have reserved that frequency range before Z-Wave came along). Another concern would be whether all of devices are readily available at that frequency to meet your present and future needs. And what about getting warranty service for those devices that are being used outside of their intended region?
  14. Differences from the insteon system

    Howdy Whisk, Check out the documentation for the Leviton Vizia RF VRI1Ø-1L Z-Wave dimmer. You'll see that it has "advanced settings" for ON fade rate, OFF fade rate, and LED brightness indication. I have had good luck with Vizia RF devices, and the documentation is usually detailed enough for advanced users. Other people on this forum have had positive experiences with Cooper, GE, and Aeotec devices, but you'll find that the level of documentation varies by brand. Response time is usually less than 1 second. If you use software and controllers from Vera or Homeseer, all of the available parameter settings reside in the local database on your system controller, but only for certified Z-Wave devices. When you add a device to the system, the software will query the device ID and then look it up in the database. The software will then provide a GUI screen for that device that will allow you to tweak the detailed settings. The down-side to these software solutions is that for newly released devices or non-certified devices, you won't be able to access the detailed settings until you can persuade the software author to add support. If you will be writing your own control software, you may find that some companies don't document their advanced parameter settings in the consumer-level documentation. You may have to write to the manufacturer for that system-integrator level of documentation. You can probably find most of the advanced documentation online. Open-source frameworks for creating your own Z-Wave control software are mentioned in other threads on this forum. Some of those frameworks represent attempts to reverse-engineer the Z-Wave dev kit, and you may find that the latest features are not supported. The Razberry from ZWave-me may be your best bet for a do-it-yourself software solution. I don't use Z-Wave scene controllers in stand-alone mode in my system, but supposedly you would have to setup each button on each scene controller individually. However, I understand that you can assign different dim levels for each device being controlled. My system controller has a different approach for controlling scenes; the scene button event goes back to the system controller, which has a user-configured list of devices to be controlled by that button. That same scene can be launched from other buttons without having to duplicate the setup effort. The down-side to launching the scenes from the system controller is that if the controller goes down or if you decide not to leave the system controller when you sell the house, your scene buttons won't do anything. I remember seeing that Leviton had a combination scene controller that also controls one hard-wired circuit, but I don't remember the model number. Three-way solutions require a "companion" switch or "coordinating remote" from the same manufacturer. It should only cost about $15. There is no programming involved. The companion switch will use the pre-existing "traveling" wires between the two switches.